Why We Love It

The Grand Seiko is the answer we pose to anyone who has ever uttered the words: “I just don’t like Seiko.” Sharp, sexy, and sophisticated, the Grand Seiko is the equal to any dress watch ever minted by the Swiss. As simple as the Simplicity but not simplistic (the sharp edges of the case and the icy opacity of the white dial make it anything but boring to look at), the Grand Seiko has been a staple of Seiko’s collections since the 60s.

And now the Grand Seiko is its own brand. Until 2017, each Grand Seiko had both the Seiko logo and the model name on the dial—the Seiko logo at 12 o’clock and the model name at 6. However, with the release of this watch, the SBGW253, Grand Seiko takes pride of place. Released along with a model in gold and one in platinum, the SBGW253 pays homage to the first Grand Seiko models of the 1960s. The 38mm case—slightly larger than the 36mm of the original—is in perfect accord with modern tastes, while still possessing a vintage flair. 

The example that we offer here comes complete with the full complement of box and papers. Every millimeter of it, from the blued-steel hands to the buckle (adorned with the logo, no less) resonates with understated elegance. Released in a limited run of 1960, the SBGW253 will have you saying, “I love Seiko.”

The Story

The Grand Seiko was created by Taro Tanaka, a young designer whom Seiko had hired right out of school. Inspired by the way Swiss watches “sparkled brilliantly,” Tanaka set out to design a watch with sharp edges, brushed surfaces, and a mirror finish that would rival anything created by the Swiss. In 1960, the first Grand Seiko—Reference 3180—debuted.

Other models of Grand Seiko would follow, coupling those elegant “sparkling” cases with high-grade (often hi-beat) manually-wound or automatic movements. When compared to the no-nonsense tool watches like the 6309 line of divers, the Grand Seiko was worlds away—refined, elegant, and cosmopolitan. Seiko intended the watch to be an answer to dress watches crafted by the Swiss, and at that it certainly did succeed.

Well-regarded in its home country, the Grand Seiko reached a global audience in 2010—and has captivated consumers ever since.